June Travels

Although this is much delayed, we still wanted to summarize our June travels for our loyal blog readers. This is completely in note format, but includes our basic highlights. Our time in Germany and Europe was filled with so many irreplaceable experiences and we find ourselves feeling so blessed for the many amazing opportunities we had to make those 8 months possible. Many of you helped make our adventures possible, whether through monetary gifts, friendship and emotional support, parenting, example, educational enrichment, or offering whatever part of you it was that helped build our confidence to even think of pursuing something like living abroad. Thank you for being in our lives and for following our adventures by checking out our blog. Stay tuned for a special peek at our Alpine experience in a couple days and a wrap up post or two yet to come. Plus, who knows - we might start two new blog pages. We came to enjoy the medium.

Love,

Bryce and Dan

Oslo – first couch surfing experience, church party at bar and church rock concert at an old theater, ferried to island to hike around, walked on roof of the opera house, walked around to park (lots of naked statues), bus to ski jump but no bus down!, cooked Mexican meal for hosts, talked politics and healthcare and church, Norwegian WWII resistance museum, bus and train to Stockholm

Stockholm – enjoyed the series of islands each w/ a different feel, large parks/gardens, modern museum (Picasso, Dali, Miro, Matisse, Warhol, Lichtenstein, Magritte), fried and pickled herring, couch surfing, improv song contest in front of royal palace on the river w/ picnic dinner, old town Glama Stan, cooked dinner w/ hosts

Cambridge – David Priddy and friends, punting, garden party, England vs. USA World Cup match, saw many blazer and short combos, brunch (incl. fried toast), tea time with scones in an orchard, Queen’s College

Sevilla – flamenco dancing (feet so fast they blurred), tiled buildings, narrow streets, tapas, sangria, cerveza, late nights, balconies, terrace breakfast, olives, oranges, avocados, plants on terraces, interesting colorful architecture, filming of car stunts, Christopher Colombus’ grave, largest gothic cathedral in world, first class train to Barcelona w/ great view of the Spanish countryside

Barcelona – travelled 301 km (roughly 186 mi) per hour, Las Ramblas walk, busy busy market, beaches that would make Mark uncomfortable (optionally), wading in the Mediterranean, Gothic Quarter, Spain vs. Switzerland World Cup match, Picasso Museum, olives, Gaudi’s architecture (casa mila, block of discord), awesome Park Guell and in-process Sagrada Familia Cathedral, horchata, Argentina World Cup match, sangria, used Rick Steves’ guide map and info thanks to Amy and Camilla

Schinznachdorf – night train to Zurich (not the best night’s sleep but fun experience), stayed with Dorothee and Matthias (distant relatives of Dan), all produce eaten from garden, Hapsburg Castle, Roman ruins, very old stain glass in cathedral, ALPS!, wonderful hike, met more relatives for birthday celebration, saw the Rhein a lot, were asked what religion is like in America, walking tour of Schinznach, Stein am Rhein and castle, met three more relatives in Beringen (where Grandpa Becker’s mother was born), learned about Dorothee’s work (graphomotor skills), learned very much about everything from Matthias (solar panels, cars, computers, watering systems, electrical systems, combination of these, etc.), rode in ’74 Citroen

Freiburg – back in Germany!, water canal things in many streets, couch surfed (in dorm, not as cushy as previous places, but a lovely time with some fun people), hiked in Black Forest, hiked to Schlossberg, climbed tower for 360 views (saw Black forest, city, probably France, maybe Alps), ate lunch in park, farmers market at Cathedral, walked around city/university with host, walked to Herdern region, watched exciting US match (U..S..A, U..S..A), watched first half of Germany game amongst enormous crowd, walked back to dorm at half to join hosts, stopped for ice cream, too slow, missed goal (heard it on the way), another “camping” night with hosts

Dresden – reunited with former Potsdam roommate Conny, walked through historical rebuilt Dresden, delicious BBQ with Conny’s family, walk through neighborhood to castle, other castle and animal park, overnight at Conny’s parents’

Berlin – Saw Barbara and Martin again, Superhero and comic book exhibition at Jewish Museum*, Watched USA vs Ghana match with Martin and Barbara at public viewing in outdoor bar along the river, watched Germany match at a Turkish establishment, flea market, watched Argentina game at Argentinean restaurant, Döner!, Potsdam to see program coordinator from 2007 study abroad (who complimented Bryce’s German multiple times), concentration camp, bicycle ride to Schöneberg Rathaus (JFK speech site), reading at Treptow Park, swimming in barge on the River Spree, Chocolate shop, more Döner, goodbye to Germany and Europe

Travel to the US - Lovely 3 am (8pm CST) wake up after getting ready until 1:30 am, quicker than expected Taxi ride, waited at airport for an hour before desk opened to check bags, bags are passed through even though a little heavy (phew), slept pretty well on plane, got through customs in a breeze (tried to claim items, but were sent to the nothing to declare side), began our 5 hour wait at our final gate, announcement was made of overbooked flight and after some back and forth decided to take it, received night in hotel, free dinner (wondered why the waitress kept asking us if we needed anything then remembered that, as opposed to Euro wait staff, she worked for her tips), and two free flights up to $500, caught flight early next morning, had no trouble waking up at 5 am, offered another $425 for overbooking but had waited long enough, home, and reunions, and Jamba Juice, and Chipotle

*after having both finished Michael Chabon’s The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier and Clay, which we highly recommend

Photos

Check out our new photos from our June Travels.

Will Work For Food

As U.S. Americans we had the luxury of arriving in Germany, and remaining for up to 90 days, before a visa was required. After settling into our home and beginning our work positions, we began the process of applying for a work permit. This included registering with the city of Bad Oeynhausen for the Auftenthaltserlaubnis or residence permit. After receiving documentation for living there, we obtained our Meldebescheinigung or registration certificate (each person must register and unregister whenever he or she moves, including Germans and even if moving next door). At this point we were able to apply for our work permit. We went into town and, after returning home again to retrieve our marriage license, handed in everything we had. This included the two previous items we applied for, our marriage license, a certificate from the Tacoma Police saying that we played well with others, our work contracts, our bank account information, our passports, as well as the application forms. The person taking our information did not seem to know what we needed, but rather accepted everything we gave her, making the bureaucratic process all the more confusing. We were informed that the process could take 5 to 8 weeks, and so we began our wait. After a week or two, we received a letter from another man, Herr Baltruweit, saying our information was not complete. We then mailed in our marriage license again, our resume, our pay stubs from Wittekindshof (what were actually needed instead of the bank info) and a statement saying how long we would be in the country.

After almost 50 days we received a letter, which stated that our application had been rejected. We took the letter to the man who helped us with everything we could ask for while in Germany. There he helped clarify for us that the letter stated we were rejected because we were hired through a subcontracting firm that Wittekindshof uses to hire its workers. It is not allowed for people outside of the European Union to be hired as contract labor. Our contracts were quickly changed, with an obligatory raise involved, and we gathered our information to travel to Minden. On a rainy Tuesday morning in March, we bussed into the larger town near our village to see Herr Baltruweit. We prepared ourselves to meet the evil man face-to-face. There the man I visualized as an enemy turned out to be a decent guy, and not even the one making the decision on our working fate. We told him that we would not be able to give our passports again, as we had travel plans, and he helped us obtain an (up to) 30-day extension for our reapplication. We would be able to continue working, and getting paid, while the application was reviewed a second time.

We enjoyed our month of allotted work, including the travels involved, while hoping that the process would take as many as the 30 days and not go over, in order to earn as much as possible. As the deadline approached, we sent an email asking about the status of our application, and were told to come back to Minden. Baltruweit surprised us again with the news that we had been rejected a second time. The reasoning this time was different: our position description was not specific enough, and did not display why we should be in these positions instead of a German or another EU resident. He said it was a low-skilled job requiring no specific talent or skill, (when researching our move we did read that those with skills that were unique are given permits), similar to McDonald’s, informing us that “a Turk should have that job.”

We asked some clarifying questions about our rejection and what we should do to reapply. Here Baltruweit was helpful, telling us that Bryce could teach English, and I should take German lessons if we wanted to stay, without “giving advice”. It was the end of April at this point, and our contracts had stated from the beginning that our work would be finished after May. Baltruweit was a bit confused, then with our asking about reapplying, as we only had a short time remaining. To us, however, it was a big deal, it was a long time and around 2000 dollars that could be spent on travelling if we were allowed to earn it. I was reminded of the professor from Carnegie Mellon University, who gave his final lecture before retiring to be with his family for his last days, as he was dying from cancer. In the lecture, he spoke of walls that are put in people’s way, and those that are willing to go around, or climb over, or take down the walls succeed. With this in mind, we were willing to reapply again even if only for a month.

We once again brought the information gathered to our contact at Wittekindshof, and he once again willingly and graciously helped us quickly change our contract. We told him that a more specific description would be helpful, that one that included the necessary use of our English would be ideal, and we were even willing to incorporate that we were working there partially do to an ancestor of mine being involved in founding and leading the community from the very beginning. We also sent a letter, in Bryce’s exquisite German, explaining why we are attempting to work in Germany, how we know of Wittekindshof, and that we are indeed only hoping to work through May, as we are registered in Graduate programs each, beginning in the Fall, with our tickets home already purchased.

In truth, our reapplication was a goal of time. Our hope was not that we would be accepted. If we were, great - we would feel more validated in our work. If we were rejected again, it would be fine, especially if it took most or all of the remaining time on our work contract. In fact, an acceptance would most likely have meant a fee, that we would have been happy to pay, but could find use for if we were not obliged to do so.

And that is how it played out. We never did hear a response from Herr Baltruweit regarding our final effort. We worked through our entire contract and earned as much as we had planned on.

In the midst of these stresses and experiences some interesting feelings surfaced. First was anxiety and worry - had we overstayed our welcome? Quite a bit more than the 90 days had passed when we were first rejected. Would we be ordered to travel out of the country? How would we get by if we did not earn any money? How would we travel? We immediately signed up for couchsurfing, which Bryce illuminated on in a previous blog article. We stopped buying as expensive of food, and had our eye out for free food opportunities. We discussed with each other that our goal in coming to Germany was to learn the language, experience the culture, and immerse ourselves in the community in which we lived. We decided that we would continue working, unpaid, if we could not be hired. I also began thinking of other ways to make some money. In these thoughts I did not care what I needed to do, or even if I was paid much at all, as long as I earned some sort of money. It was an interesting window to look through, specifically considering the fate of so many undocumented workers and citizens in the US, not to mention Arizona.

After the fact, everything developed as we had hoped. There was added stress that made us long for home, but it was a valuable experience to go through. One that helped us realize our un-entitlement that even when trying to avoid, can seep into the American mindset. Although this was uncomfortable, it was something we were searching for. So it all worked out, except that Herr Baltruweit proved a bit too nice, not so inimical. For, I had thought I found the perfect nemesis in my upcoming great American novel.

BALTRUWEIT!!!!!!

Home

...more to come.

Finding the Californian in Me

I’ve never much fancied the idea of surfing. Okay, fancied maybe, but not realistically. I am not what one would describe as a thrill seeker. I like my life to feel secure. There are enough thrills in the everyday anyways – Will I miss the bus? Will I get dehydrated if I forget my water bottle? You know, the usual worries. I like to imagine my life as a relaxed person who enjoys adventure. Surfing fits into these scenarios easily, but if I’m honest with myself, it’s not part of my reality.

My relationship with surfing is not only hindered by my inability to try something I perceive as dangerous, but further hindered by its integral role in the stereotyping of my home state, California. And I’m not just from California, but southern California. Better yet, Orange County. Nothing gets me worked up quicker than a packaged description of California. Well, I say that about a lot of things, but it’s definitely up there on the list of do-not-do-around-Bryce things. The number of these assumptions I was subjected to severely increased with the integration of Dan into my life, and with it all of the Midwesterners who became my loved ones. I tried to be patient; there are only so many comments about perfect weather, tans and beaches that I can take. The last 5 years were probably good training for our time in Europe, though, where people are quite convinced of their American notions, number one amongst them being the So Cal life. I generally think of myself as rather unpatriotic. I see many faults with our country and long for many deeply complicated yet fundamental changes. But nothing makes me question this more than the feistiness I feel at the spouting of comments on perfect weather and beaches. I have a deep pride in the mountains that span my home state, and its offering of every climate, including that white stuff that comes around in the winter, yes, snow. I pride myself on defying the stereotype of a California girl, too. No, I don’t have blond hair, a plastic body, a closet full of designer clothes and a year-round tan, and above all, I do not surf.

Or do I? I fear I may have given in to the image a bit. A few months ago, we joined the online network at couchsurfing.org. We’d heard of it on and off throughout the last few years and only heard positive reviews. If you are unfamiliar with the concept, couchsurfing is a network that connects people internationally as an alternative way to find lodging in and experience a city. Members make a profile with basic info, like interests and jobs, post photos, and list their expectations from participating in the program, down to the basic how many people can fit on their couch per night. When traveling, members search for their destination city and start looking through profiles to find a host. You send a friendly message, requesting to stay on your specified dates and wait for a yeah or neigh.

Now this is a type of surfing I can really get behind. One might think it’s not in keeping with my personality. It is a bit of a thrill-seeking activity, after all, to stay on a stranger’s couch, and admittedly I’d be more selective in my requests if I were a single female traveling alone. But what thrill could be better for mankind today? People hunger for a black and white reality, something that is explainable and thus more secure, and with that, arise many stereotypes and prejudices, as well as individualism. Through individualism, we begin a cycle of bigger-better-faster-stronger, one against the other, and eventually whole cultures are divided from one another. Animosity forms. People attack in desperation, but incidentally stereotypes are strengthened and separatism ensues. The cycle gains speed, and instead of holding others in love and grace, we allow fear to dominate. Couch surfing is a simple and unique way to deconstruct these barriers person by person. One woman we contacted through the website stated that her current mission was to do her “little part to increase the global trust.” To start with, it is an exchange of faith to open your home to a stranger and to spend the night at a stranger’s home (with things like your passport sitting in the living room). It perhaps places more faith in an individual to acknowledge that she has something to share with you, to enrich your days.

Staying with locals allows you to get a picture of the everyday life of people in that city. You share in their daily patterns, from eating to sleeping, and have the opportunity to sit around the table together, discussing politics, religion and other complex issues largely affected by culture. In doing so, you not only learn more about the culture of the place you are visiting, but also have the opportunity to share your own experiences and opinions. There’s a certain assurance in jumping into these topics with couch surfers, too – everyone has a common interest in traveling and exploring, which makes the chances of finding someone open and eager to engage in this mutual sharing more likely.

Dan and I have tested the waters twice now on our month of European travels, and both experiences were more than positive. We’re hoping to find at least one other couch to surf on this trip and to open our apartment to travelers once we settle in Boston. Much of the joy of traveling is realizing how much there is to see and appreciating the diversity of the world and her people. While couch surfing helps highlight this diversity, it also brings out the opposite beauty in traveling – acknowledging and honoring a very common and shared humanity with people thousands of miles away despite the urges in today’s society to separate. This acknowledgment is a thrilling relief to me.

So I guess I’ve tested my adventure-seeking abilities and it looks like I’m not as adverse to it as I may have thought. I must say I am enjoying surfing so far - and hey, maybe it makes me a better Californian.

The Begending

Remember in the first Matrix movie where Keanu says, “this isn’t the end, but the beginning”? Well my learning of German is not like that; at least I hope it produces better outcomes than sappy Christian metaphors and raindrops hitting eyeballs in super-duper slow-mo. When we moved to Germany and I began studying the language, I had visions of carrying on jovial conversations in Deutsch, cracking people up with my witty German banter. Alas, this did not end up being the case, but I am not especially disappointed in myself. I feel that I have learned a satisfactory amount. Having not spent more than two semesters in Spanish class, I had not realized how extensive learning a language is. I had expected that learning as much as I learned in these 7 months I would be able to be more fluent.

So here is where I am. Most of the time, when someone is speaking to me in German I can figure out the meaning of the conversation. I can piece together enough of the words that I can make a guess to what someone is saying. However, this can lead to being completely wrong if someone says “not something” and I hear “something.” When I need to be sure, as in getting our deposit back from our landlord, I am less able to figure out what is being said, and less willing to guess. When another English speaker is around, I more readily give in and look to him or her for help. When a conversation lasts more than a few sentences without a break I begin to lose where I am and sometimes ask someone to speak slower. If it is in a group, I usually begin to daydream. This is especially the case in church. Going to church, or in a work meeting, spoken in German brought me back to what I felt like as a child. Everything takes sooo long, and is mostly boring. My imagination, however, got a good workout in each of these settings (only on a couple occasions did I need to refrain myself from laughing after daydreaming about something that I had found humorous previously). I was also reminded of childhood while reading newspapers. I remember never understanding why people enjoyed newspapers, and here, again, I would read the captions and look at the pictures, make my way through the headlines, and spend extra time on people I recognized, specifically the US celebrities that would show up regularly in the Bad Oeynhausen paper. (So if you have kids that get bored easily, remember it is difficult to pay attention when you don’t understand everything that is going on.)

Speaking was quite different than listening and understanding. If I was able to follow along in a conversation I would often reply in English, as I was not quick enough to develop a sentence in German. I could mostly develop sentences that would make sense with what I wanted to get across, although not all of them were understandable, and it would take time to begin the next statement or sentence. When someone would ask if there were parts of the language that I had learned or if they requested me to say something, I would often reply with the sentences I had practiced the most. This included: “I don’t know,” “I don’t understand,” or “what would you like on your bread.”

In truth, I had the best conversations and learned the most from the residents at my two positions. I am grateful for the patience and grace that each would give me as they attempted to make clear to me what was on their mind. They would not become annoyed or feel uncomfortable if I needed to ask them to say something again, or to speak more slowly. They were also willing to wait as I tried a couple times to get across what I wanted to say. Not everyone is as practiced at these skills as the individuals that helped me learn very many things.

Switching jobs when we did also helped me turn a corner with my language learning. In my first job, I was not expected to know any German and was treated accordingly. In the second placement, the manager told the staff to not speak English to us because we wanted to learn German. This was good, although added some stress and separation into the work environment. Possibly the best part about switching positions was the opportunity to go back to the first placement. When visiting I would show off my newer German skills and cause statements such as: “I didn’t recognize him because the man that was here before didn’t speak German.”

Overall, I felt that some people think that I learned very much German in the seven months we lived in Bergkirchen and others thought I learned next to nothing. It depended on how much English I could speak with them initially (what habit we formed from the beginning) as well as how much German I spoke with them, or how long our conversations were.

So I want Keanu to be right, my hope is that this is not the end of my language learning, but the beginning. I hope to develop my skills further and gain new vocabularies and understand more rules. I do not know if I will use this practically in the future, but what I may have learned most (and had assumed before) is that learning a language is valuable regardless of whether I use it or not.

-Dan

All for now...

Well, Monday was our last day of work at Wittekindshof. We say goodbye to our town of Bergkirchen at 8 am tomorrow to begin our month of travels. This means two things. First, that it is really time to write a hearty blog with lots of reflection. Second, that we have been way too busy to sit down to write a hearty blog with lots of reflection. So for now, here's what we've been up to: packing, cleaning, repacking, saying goodbyes, going to doctors appointments for school health forms, closing our bank account, eating really good meals at work festivities or friends' homes, and wishing we'd done a little more hiking and biking aimlessly through the countryside.

We promise something a little more stimulating once we get a chance to sit down, but know that missing you is making it easier to leave the home we made here.